If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say, "I just can’t get it sharp," I could probably buy a lifetime supply of belts and stones. It’s the single most common frustration I hear from customers. Whether it’s a kitchen knife, a pocket knife, or something passed down from Grandpa—it doesn’t matter. People try their best, spend time honing or grinding, and still end up with a blade that crushes tomatoes instead of slicing them. So, what’s going wrong?
As a professional sharpener serving the Madison, WI area, I’m here to tell you: it’s not you. Okay, sometimes it is you—but not in the way you think. There are a handful of common culprits that get in the way of a truly sharp edge. Let’s walk through the most common reasons your knife isn’t getting sharp (and what to do about it).
The apex is the point where both sides of the blade meet to form the cutting edge. If you're not grinding all the way to that apex, you're not sharpening—you're just thinning. It may look shinier. It may feel smoother. But if the bevels never meet, you're still using a blunt object.
Fix it: Use a marker trick. Color in the bevel of your knife and do a few passes on your sharpening tool. If you're not removing the marker from the very edge, you're not apexing. Adjust your angle and keep going until that edge is fully reached.
Factory angles are all over the place. Cheap kitchen knives often come with wide bevels (22-25° per side). Japanese knives might be 15° or even less. If you're sharpening at a lower angle than what's already there, you may just be polishing the shoulders instead of sharpening the edge.
Fix it: Match or reset the bevel. Sometimes it’s worth re-profiling your knife to a better angle (I sharpen all Western kitchen knives at 18° per side, Japanese styles at 15°). But if you're trying to sharpen a cheap blade at too shallow an angle, you're setting yourself up for failure.
That old-school Arkansas stone or 600-grit pull-through sharpener isn’t going to cut it if your knife is dull-dull. You need something aggressive to start with—something that will reset the edge before you polish it up.
Fix it: Start coarser. If your edge won’t apex or raise a burr, you need to back up and get gritty. I use a 120 or 220 grit belt for most knives that need serious work. A coarse stone or diamond plate can also work wonders.
A honing rod (ceramic or steel) is for edge maintenance, not edge creation. It re-aligns a slightly rolled edge but won’t bring a butter-knife back to life. Still, this confusion persists.
Fix it: Know when to hone vs. sharpen. If the knife won’t cut paper or bites poorly into a tomato, it’s time to sharpen. Not hone. Think of honing like brushing your teeth. It helps prevent problems but doesn’t replace a trip to the dentist.
The burr is your feedback loop. It tells you that you’ve ground all the way to the edge. If you never raise one, there’s a good chance you’re not actually sharpening.
Fix it: Feel for it. Lightly run your finger from spine to edge (not along the edge!) and check for a tiny lip on the opposite side. That’s your burr. Once you get it, flip and repeat. Only then move to a finer grit to refine the edge.
Some knives are overhardened and chip easily. Others are so soft they fold over with minimal use. If the steel doesn’t cooperate, you’ll always be fighting an uphill battle.
Fix it: Know your steel. Budget knives are often made from soft stainless and can be sharpened easily but dull quickly. Premium steels (like S35VN or M4) may require diamond abrasives or ceramic stones to properly sharpen. Match your gear to your steel.
Mirror edges look nice, but they don’t always cut better. Over-polishing can round off the apex, especially if your stropping angle is too high or too light on pressure.
Fix it: Use polish with purpose. Stop at 1000 grit for kitchen work unless you really know what you’re doing. If you strop, keep the angle consistent and minimal. A toothy edge often outperforms a polished one in food prep.
If the edge is chipped, rolled, or the knife is bent, no amount of stropping or honing will help. Damage needs repair first.
Fix it: Inspect closely. Chips require a full regrind. Bent tips need reshaping. Even warping along the spine can affect how the edge contacts the cutting board. Sometimes, it’s more restoration than sharpening.
Let’s say you did everything right: apexed the edge, polished it just enough, and it feels sharp. But have you tested it? A visual check won’t cut it. (Literally.)
Fix it: Use real tests. Cut a piece of phone book paper. Shave arm hair. Try a cherry tomato. If it catches or tears instead of slicing clean, you’re not done yet.
Maybe you’ve tried everything. You watched all the YouTube videos. You bought the stones. You followed the steps. And it’s still not sharp.
At this point, it’s okay to bring in a professional.
Fix it: Let someone else reset it for you. That’s where I come in. At Sharp On Sight, I specialize in sharpening kitchen knives, pocket knives, shears, and more for customers in Sun Prairie, Madison, Waunakee, and the surrounding area. I re-profile damaged blades, set correct bevels, and deliver razor-sharp results in-person or by drop-off.
If you’re tired of struggling with dull knives, there’s no shame in asking for help. Here’s what I offer:
I sharpen everything from cheap kitchen beaters to high-end Japanese blades, and I don’t send it back unless it’s slicing like it should.
So if you’ve ever caught yourself muttering "I just can’t get it sharp," know that you’re not alone. It’s fixable. And if you need help, I’m just a message away.
Need Your Knife Sharpened?
Contact me at Sharp On Sight on Facebook or text/call to get on the schedule.
Let’s get that blade back in shape.
Whether you're looking for a quote or just have a question, I'm here to help. Reach out, and let's bring those edges back to life.